The Craft of Shoe Making in Northamptonshire: A Step Inside the Process
Northamptonshire, England. Home of Coulson Macleod and also... shoes!
Northamptonshire has long been renowned for its exceptional shoe-making industry. For over 900 years, the skilled craftsmen of this region have been creating some of the finest footwear in the world. Utilising traditional techniques and the highest quality materials.
The process of crafting a pair of shoes is complex; involving numerous steps and a high degree of precision. From the selection of the leather to the final polishing, every stage of the process is undertaken with care and attention to detail. In this blog post, we'll delve into the world of Northamptonshire shoe-making; exploring the history, the craft, and the people. Read on for more.
Union Co-Op, Kettering (c. 1910) © Northampton Museum and Art Gallery
Here at Coulson Macleod, we mostly make paper goods; greeting cards, art prints and other gift items. Not shoes.
But, as a small creative business, we thought it would be interesting to dive into the processes of a BIG industry that flourished right here in our home county.
Join us as we take a closer look at shoe-making in Northamptonshire, and discover the secrets behind the creation of some of the world's most coveted footwear.
All historic photos in this post have kindly been provided by one of our stockists - the fabulous Northampton Museum and Art Gallery. Local to us in Northamptonshire, England. They retain the copyright to the images featured.
A SHORT History of Shoe Making in Northamptonshire
Northamptonshire has been the centre of the English shoe-making industry since the Middle Ages. The region's abundance of high-quality leather, combined with its skilled craftsmen, made it an ideal location for the industry to thrive.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the industrial revolution brought significant changes to the shoe-making industry, with many new machines and techniques being introduced. However, Northamptonshire continued to focus on traditional hand-crafted techniques, which ensured the region's shoes remained known for their durability and luxury status.
Today, Northamptonshire remains at the forefront of the shoe-making industry, with many of the world's most renowned shoe brands sourcing their shoes from the region. The industry employs over 10,000 people, and the shoes produced here are highly sought after for their quality and craftsmanship.
Thomas Amos, Long Buckby (late 19th century) © Northampton Museum and Art Gallery
The Shoe-Making Process - From Design to Finished Product
The process of making a shoe is a complex and multi-stage one, involving numerous steps and a high level of precision. It typically begins with a designer creating a sketch or a 3D model of the shoe. The designer works closely with the shoemaker to ensure that the design is both aesthetically pleasing and practical to produce.
Once the design is finalised, the shoe-making process can begin. The first step is to create a pattern from the design, which is then used to cut the leather. The leather is then stretched and shaped around the last (a wooden or plastic form that is shaped like a foot). The shoe is stitched together, and the sole is attached to the bottom of the shoe.
After the shoe has been assembled, it's time for the finishing touches. The shoe is sanded, polished, and buffed to create a smooth and shiny finish. The shoelaces are then added, and the shoe is ready to be sold.
Union Co-Op, Kettering (c. 1920) © Northampton Museum and Art Gallery
Materials Used in Northamptonshire Shoe Making
The quality of the materials used in Northamptonshire shoe-making is one of the factors that sets the region's shoes apart from others. The leather is carefully selected for its durability and suppleness, and only the highest quality hides are used.
In addition to leather, other materials used in Northamptonshire shoe-making include rubber for the soles, waxed cotton for the laces, and brass or metal for the eyelets. All materials are carefully chosen, ensuring that the shoes produced in Northamptonshire are of the highest standard.
The Importance of Skilled Craftsmanship
Skilled craftsmanship is at the heart of Northamptonshire's shoe-making industry. The region is home to some of the world's most skilled shoe-makers, who've honed their craft over many years. The shoe-making process requires attention to detail, and the craftsmen of Northamptonshire really are masters of their trade.
Many of the region's shoe-making companies have been in business for hundreds of years, and the knowledge and skills have been passed down from one generation to the next. The apprenticeship system is still widely used in Northamptonshire, with young people learning the trade from experienced shoemakers.
The Role of Technology in Shoe Making
While Northamptonshire's shoe-making industry is steeped in tradition, technology has played an increasingly important role in recent years. Many of the processes that were once done by hand are now automated (allowing for greater efficiency and accuracy).
Computer-aided design (CAD) is now widely used in the shoe-making process. This means that designers can create precise 3D models of their designs. Laser-cutting machines are also used to cut the leather, ensuring a clean and accurate cut every time.
However, despite the introduction of modern technology, the traditional hand-crafted techniques that have made Northamptonshire shoes so highly regarded are still used in many parts of the production process. And we think it would be a real shame if they were gone forever. Long may it continue!
Packing Department, Shoe Factory, Kettering (1910) © Northampton Museum and Art Gallery
Sustainability in the Shoe-Making Industry
Sustainability is an increasingly important issue in the shoe-making industry, and Northamptonshire is no exception. Many of the region's shoe-makers are taking steps to reduce their environmental impact, such as using sustainable materials, refurbishment services, reducing waste, and investing in green energy.
One example of this is Church's, a Northamptonshire-based shoe maker that has been in business since 1873. The company has implemented a number of sustainability initiatives, including using leather from sustainable sources and reducing its carbon footprint through the use of renewable energy.
Famous Northamptonshire Shoe Makers and Their Signature Styles
Northamptonshire is home to many famous shoe-makers, each with their own signature style. Here are just a few examples:
- John Lobb: Known for high-end bespoke shoes, John Lobb has been making shoes in Northamptonshire since 1866. https://www.johnlobb.com/
- Church's: Now owned by the Prada fashion group, Church's was founded in 1873.
- W.J. Brooks: Inspiration for the heartwarming British movie and subsequent Broadway Musical, Kinky Boots. The movie starred Chiwetel Ejiofor and Joel Edgerton. An uplifting story of how a local factory was saved when they switched to the niche market of making fantastic, elaborate footwear for Drag Queens. Unfortunately, W.J. Brooks closed in 2000.
- Tricker's: Founded in 1829, Tricker's is known for its sturdy, practical shoes, including its famous country boots. The company's shoes are still made using traditional techniques and high-quality materials.
- Crockett & Jones: Established in 1879, Crockett & Jones is known for its elegant, timeless designs. The company's shoes are still made using traditional techniques, and each pair is hand-crafted with care and attention to detail. https://www.crockettandjones.com/
- Grenson: Another shoemaker established in 1866. Grenson's striking Nanette boots had a bit of a fashion moment. Loved by celebrities and influencers alike. Worn by Jenna Coleman, Hailey Bieber and Stacey Dooley.
C&E Lewis Factory, Northampton (late 19th Century) © Northampton Museum and Art Gallery
Visiting Northamptonshire Shoe Factories and Museums
For anyone interested in the art of shoe-making, a visit to Northamptonshire is a must. Many of the region's shoe-makers offer factory tours, where visitors can see the shoe-making process and learn more about the industry's history and traditions.
In addition to factory tours, Northamptonshire is also home to several museums dedicated to the region's shoe-making industry. The fantastic Northampton Museum and Art Gallery has a collection of shoes dating all the way back to the 12th century. They have a selection of Coulson Macleod designs available to purchase in the museum's gift shop.
For more information on visiting times and current exhibitions, click here: https://www.northamptonmuseums.com/
THE FUTURE OF Northamptonshire's Shoe Industry
Northamptonshire's shoe-making industry has a long and storied history, and it's clear that the region's skilled craftsmen continue to set the standard for shoe-making.
While the industry has faced challenges over the years, including increased competition from overseas manufacturers, it's clear that Northamptonshire's shoe-makers are committed to preserving the region's traditions and ensuring that its shoes remain among the finest in the world.
Looking ahead, the future of Northamptonshire's shoe-making industry looks bright.
The region's shoemakers continue to innovate and adapt, incorporating new technologies and sustainable practices while maintaining their commitment to traditional craftsmanship. For anyone who appreciates fine footwear, a pair of Northamptonshire shoes is a must-have, and a visit to the region is an opportunity to witness the craft of shoe-making at its finest.
Take a look at our range of greeting cards, art prints and gifts for shoe lovers. We also have a typographic design that celebrates the county of Northamptonshire, too.
